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Getting Around: San Francisco, CA
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Getting Around: San Francisco, CA

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Bay Area Essentials

  • Use Clipper to pay. You can set it up in your phone transit wallet.
  • Tap when you get on. (For BART and CalTrain also tap when you get off).
  • Transit app is accurate. It may try to sell you AC tickets. Don’t. Just use Clipper.

January 2024, November 2024, April 2025

BART subway station platform. Train at left. Passengers walking.
Escalator with rainbow-color lights reflected dramatically, facing sideways and slightly upward.
San Francisco cable car. Exterior side view on a sloped street, passengers visible.

Riding

SF is one of the easiest articles to write, because the transit generally works how you expect.

Set up Clipper on your phone (Apple Wallet: click + then Transit Card). Once you have Clipper set up, you can ride pretty much anything. You add a balance to the card in Apple Wallet, and it just deducts the right amount, automatically figuring out distances, transfers, etc. It’s pretty seamless (except on the cable car; I had to open Clipper in my wallet to get it to scan right). Keep at least $10 balance and you’re good most anywhere.

You can also do a physical card, but I find the phone app super convenient, especially when I need to add value.

Screenshot of Transit Card screen on an iPhone. United States section shows Clipper, SmarTrip, and TAP. China mainland section below.
Clipper in a transit wallet
Fare gates for SF MUNI, underground with a white corridor beyond.
MUNI fare gates

There are a lot of different transit agencies and routes, and it can be a bit confusing which to take. The Transit app is pretty great at finding you an efficient route. If you’re downtown, you might be able to take bart, a fast Muni Metro train, a slower above-ground Muni Metro streetcar, a bus, or a cable car to get to your destination.

Just tap on, and you’re good to go. Bart and CalTrain have distance-based fares so you have to tap again when you get off. There might be a higher authorization on your card for a bit, which gets refunded once you tap off.

Muni Metro is interesting; downtown you’ll tap at the station, but if you’re further away you’ll tap the reader as you enter the train. As long as you’ve tapped at one time or another you’re fine.

Yellow pole with a tap-style fare reader inside a train. Screen reads “CLIPPER and Adult Fare $2.50”
Fare card reader onboard MUNI rail

Compared to many other American cities, SF’s transit is on the pricy side. The ferries and cable cars are 8 bucks (I call it a Tourist Surcharge), and BART charges you by distance. Regular buses and Muni Metro are just $2.50 though. I was there 3 days and spent almost $50. But I was also riding a bit extra for research purposes.

BART

BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) is one of the faster ways to get around, for medium distances. Muni Metro will probably handle your shorter trips, and CalTrain your very long ones.

BART charges you by distance. I went from Oakland to downtown SF, and that was $4.05. You need to tap when you enter the system and when you exit, so it knows how much to charge you.

BART fare gate with Clipper card reader. Hand on blue rolling suitcase in foreground.
I tapped my phone here on my way out of BART.
Small screen reading: OK, Fare $4.05, Bal. $3.60
The screen shows me that I paid $4.05 and had a remaining balance of $3.60.
Screenshot of Clipper Card transactions on iPhone.
Here’s the Clipper page in my Apple Wallet. It shows all my charges, including the $4.05 for my BART trip.

Ferries

The ferries are a bit tricky to find. I don’t know if it’s due to construction or if it’s normal. If you’re at the ferry terminal, on your right is a cluster of buildings for Golden Gate Ferry. The ferries do not leave from that building. They leave from a different pier on the left. Once you find that, the employees will separate you into an appropriate queue.

The signage for the ferries is poor, and there are a lot of unwritten rules. I saw ferry employees getting upset with bicyclists for standing slightly to the right instead of to the left when they were in line.

I think there are other ferry companies to other destinations, but I didn’t ride them.

Crowd of people waiting near a dock reading “Gate B, Port of San Francisco.” Ferries docked on either side.
Waiting for the ferry to Sausalito
Onboard ferry. Brown table with a set of electrical outlets popping up in the middle. Empty plastic cup on table. Railings and downward stairs beyond.
Charging ports aboard the ferry.

The ferries are very nice, plenty of seating, onboard electrical outlets for you to charge your devices, small bar with food and drinks and I think booze.

Sausalito is an absolute tourist trap. But that has nothing to do with transit.

View from a ferry, water at bottom, sky at top, sun top right. Passenger silhouette bottom right. Alcatraz in distance, San Francisco in further distance.
View of San Francisco from the Sausalito ferry

Cable Cars

Cable cars are kinda a tourist thing, not terribly fast, but great at hills, and really fun to ride. The fare, at 8 bucks, is as steep as the hills it climbs. Har har har.

It took a WHILE for the car to come, and a while longer for it to depart. They really aren’t concerned with efficiency or frequency here.

San Francisco cable car, view from inside. Train operator in reflective vest at far end.
On the cable car
Cable car traveling down a street in downtown San Francisco

There’s a $13 day pass as well. I don’t know if Clipper will automatically figure that out and just charge you $5 for your second ride, or if you should buy a separate day pass ticket instead. A driver or attendant could probably answer that question. I just rode once; when we departed, an employee came around with a handheld reader for Clipper. Unlike all my other Clipper trips, for this one I had to open my wallet and have Clipper on-screen for it to work (it tried to pull up my credit card instead).

Muni Metro

The Muni Metro trains are pretty amazing. They run underground downtown with raised platforms, and outside of downtown they run at street level, and you need to walk up stairs to get in. When the train goes from underground to above-ground. the inside of the car, by the doors, converts from flat to stairs, making a cautionary beep beep beep.

Train interior, SF Metro MUNI.
Inside the Muni Metro
Floor of a streetcar, with striped area that can convert to stairs.
The floor…
Floor of a streetcar, with stairs down to the door. Passenger lef enters frame at left.
…becomes stairs.

In general, these are pretty efficient. I rode one all the way to the end of the line in Ocean Beach, and the ride was pretty monotonous, felt like it stopped too much and took longer than I expected. But it got me there. And it’s kinda just a product of the geography. If you’re in a flat area, you can put stops several blocks apart, but with how hilly SF is, each further block between stops is a big schlep.

Turnstiles. Sign reads “MUNI Metro Entrance.” Screens show westbound departure times for several train lines.
Heading in to the MUNI.
MUNI Metro train, looking in from outside. Balboa Park on digital display.
A different MUNI than I needed. There’s lots of lines.

Amtrak Connections

Irritatingly, Amtrak kinda snakes its way through the bay area without making many easy connections to local transit. It’s especially difficult with Amtrak’s long-distance Coast Starlight, which only stops at San Jose, Oakland, and Emeryville.

Map of BART and Amtrak routes in the San Francisco Bay Area, with yellow callouts commenting things like “Nope” and “Kinda” to illustrate difficulty of transfers.
Look at all the ways you can’t easily get from Amtrak to BART.

BART to Oakland

The Lake Merritt BART station is somewhat close to the Oakland - Jack London Amtrak station. Somewhat being the key word. It’s about a 10-15 minute walk. It’s not the worst neighborhood, but also not the best. I was watching my back a bit on the Lake Merritt end. There is a good coffee house close to the Amtrak station, but the neighborhood is still kinda sparse.

Close-up map of coastal Oakland, showing the Oakland Jack London Amtrak stop several blocks away from Lake Merritt BART.
You can walk this, but it takes a while. You have to walk under a freeway.
Statue of a man in front of the Oakland Jack London Amtrak station. A brown coffee cup sits in the statue’s open hand.
Who is the man with the coffee?

BART to Richmond

It really feels like you should be able to take BART directly to/from an Amtrak station. And you can! Unfortunately, despite Amtrak and Bart crossing close to each other several times, the Coast Starlight doesn’t offer any direct connections to BART.

Bay Area map showing BART and Amtrak, zoomed out to see Richmond in the north.
BART and Amtrak meet in Richmond, way in the outskirts of the Bay Area.
View out of a train window onto a freeway median.
Bart on the freeway median in Oakland
View of onboard train information screen on BART: “Boarding, 12th St/Oakland City Center”, “Welcome, Red Line to Richmond.”
Really great info screens onboard the BART

You can connect from BART directly to other Amtrak lines, such as the Capitol Corridor (which I love). One of these connections is in Richmond.

Getting to Richmond was easy. I just rode the BART to the end of the line. It took a while, but it was fine.

The Richmond station was a bit tricky to navigate, but mostly because I wasn’t paying close attention and walked past the Amtrak sign a couple times.

Richmond train platform. Razor wire fence, further train platforms, and parking garage in distance.
Richmond Amtrak platform
Wide underground walkway. “All Amtrak Trains” sign in the distance.
Richmond Amtrak station, underground.

There is, unfortunately, almost nothing at all near the Richmond stop. There was a convenience store, and that was all, and it didn’t feel like the best neighborhood to poke around.

Don’t get there early, unless you bring a book or like playing phone games.

Close-up map of Richmond Amtrak/BART station. “Bart Mart & Deli” is the only business adjacent to station.
Bart Mart holding down the fort here.

Amtrak Bus to/from Emeryville

Amtrak does run a bus to downtown San Francisco, from Emeryville. If you book a ticket to San Francisco, Amtrak will suggest a two-ticket ride, that takes you first to Emeryville by train, then from Emeryville to San Francisco by bus.

The bus coordinates with the train. It will wait for the train if the train is late. This was the best option when I was riding the northbound Coast Starlight, which arrives around 9pm.

The bus was fine. It let me off near the Salesforce Center, a couple blocks from a MUNI stop.

Emeryville itself… there’s not much of interest near the Amtrak stop. Kinda a theme, I’m finding.

CalTrain to/from San Jose

Interior of CalTrain commuter train, including one row of seats on second level.
Onboard the CalTrain. Great ride, but the upper level creeps me out.
Gentle ramp at a train station, with CalTrain train parked at flatform.
CalTrain at San Jose.

CalTrain is longer-distance regional rail that runs between San Jose and San Francisco. On one trip, I took Amtrak to San Jose, stayed the night, then took CalTrain to San Francisco the next day. It was easy, fast, and efficient. Tap with Clipper as you get on, expect a fare checker to scan your phone (or whatever you paid with) during the journey, and tap when you get off.

Have some extra value on Clipper if you’re riding CalTrain. If I recall correctly, it temporarily charges you the amount of the longest trip possible when you board. Then when you exit, it calculates your actual fare and refunds you the difference.

Make extra sure that you tap on the way out, or you’ll be charged for a longer trip than you took.

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